At Paul Slinkard's suggestion henceforth this kit will be known as XRX instead of DXR
Mike (firstname.lastname@example.org) has identified a way to determine the small Sportster 2.2 gallon tank from the 3.2 gallon tank. If you measure from the rear tank mount to the back of the tank and come up with 2" that's the 2.2 tank. If this distance is 5" that's the 3.2 gallon tank. I have made the XRX tail around the 3.2 tank so I may not be able to serve those with 2.2 tanks
Rightly or wrongly I designed the XRX kit around the use of my new side battery cover (which is different than my existing slab-sided battery cover). If you notice the sweep from the pointy fronts down to the bottom edge on the left side you'll see it differs from the right side. The left is a more abrupt angle while the right is a longer sweep. This mean if you are not going to use a battery cover the tail will look awful because it sweeps down on the left and meets nothing.
Okay the shaping process is virtually done. As you can see I have the final primer coat on all the parts. This stuff is what I sand to 2000 grit and polish so molds can be made. I probably have 2 weeks worth of sanding to do and the polishing/waxing process will take a week then it's off to the mold maker we go. I guess that they will take a minimum of two weeks to make the molds then we can make the first parts. After that I have to make the taillight and license plate holder out of fiberglass and have my machinist make the aluminum mounts. This process is agonizingly slow for you all I know. I will send another report in about 2 weeks.
This week's task was to make the seat base. Here is the raw fiberglass laid into the fender well designed for the seat. Before I pulled it off the fender I put legs on it. The legs elevate the seat base for applying the sandable finish on it later. You'll see it in an advanced stage next time.
The blue tape protected the fender from curing fiberglass:
More when I have it next week.
I was going to make a shroud around pull side cover and draw air from right side pan vent. I determined the kit would have to sell above $250. That won’t fly!
Indy Trails from 1986 with Fuji fan-cooled 433s and 488s had overheating problems. On warmer days and at slow speed operation power diminishes noticeably. The sled may stop and when cooled down it will restart. Some engines just seized. Not at all what owners expected from stone reliable Polaris engines and for the “wife’s” sled.Add a comment
More race promoters are including non-traditional classes in their programs and other promoters offer nothing but run-what-ya-brung classes. The nuttier racing is the more spectators eat it up. I mean, what flat track spectator wouldn’t enjoy watching high bar choppers trying to negotiate an 1/8th or ¼ mile track?
One of the classes almost always offered is the “stock” Sportster class. Most customers who are into this are using 883 and 1200 Evos. They order a front wheel conversion kit from me to use on the rear so they can get flat track tires (which only come in 19”) to handle the dirt tracks. Oh they’ll put on DT bars, bolt on some number plates and pull the silencers but that’s about it. Hooliganism is catching on in California, Inner mountain west, Texas and in the East. Photo by Kiley Yee, parts guy at High Desert H-D in Idaho.Add a comment
I think I have a cheap way to introduce fresh air right into fan. I've worried that the holes in the nose will not be able to flow enough cooling air. I found this vent unit at Home Depot with a 4" pipe--about 10 bucks. I believe with a bit of trimming it can be inserted into a DIY 4" hole in the pan and the tube is the right length to reach directly over to the fan. The tube should clear under the exhaust. My vent came in brown but flat black plastic aerosol paint should cure that. When I have it trimmed, painted and installed I'll show photos and tell you how to do it.
We are now fulfilling hood kits orders at the rate of about two to three per week so that part is working.